Suqqu eyeshadow quad ex-29 Koukiori

Earlier this year, SUQQU came out with a limited edition palette, only sold at Isetan dept. store in Shinjuku, I believe. I was lucky enough to purchase the quad, which is now being released as a limited edition in the UK. Named EX-29 Koukiori (光絹織), now excuse my poor Japanese, I think it means 'light weaves of silk". Very fitting, as this quad gleams of light to me.

Looking at the palette

There are 3 regular pans and one split pan, which I'm a big fan of. Murasakisuishou with 4 split pans was my first SUQQU palette a couple years ago, and still remains as one of my favorite quads of all time. I think the SUQQU's magic is in the sheer, layerable shades and very fine shimmers, also suitable for more mature lids. Some of the quads are more complex than the others, Koukiori perhaps being the latter, but it doesn't diminish it's beauty in my eyes.


Koukiori has a certain frosty qualities in its shimmery silver, shiny pink and pale pinky white, but don't let it scare you. Think of the glow of an ethereal Snow Queen, not 80s glitter bomb exploded all over your face (but if that's your fancy, you do you!). SUQQU's formulation is far more refined, creating perfect "grown up glitter" that will glow and compliment one's eyes. Something that movie stars would wear on a red carpet.


Shades swatched clockwise. The silver does have specks of white, but they are very finely milled without being tacky or chunky. When you dip your brush into the silver, the texture a bit gritty, not as buttery smooth as some of the other shades in previous quads. I use an eyeshadow base every day, and haven't experienced any significant fallout. The upper left cool pink is quite basic and simple, but very pretty all over the lid. I prefer it over the pink in Hanashion EX-27, another dept. store limited palette. The most complex shade could be the bottom right pale pinky white with cool peach undertones. It's almost duo-chrome on the skin, switching from white to pink. The shimmers are ultra fine. The fourth shade is split between a beautiful medium taupe and a gunmetal blue. These work great for deepening the outer corners, accenting the lash line or as a gradation as you will see below.


Japanese eyeshadows are often on the sheer side, I'd say pigmentation of Koukiori is light-medium. Sometimes silky soft shadows or SUQQU tend to disappear if overly blended, and I have not experienced this with Koukiori yet. The shades don't differ too much, but look balanced, smooth and distinguishable enough to me. If you find your shadows disappearing into a muddy mess, I suggest trying to uniformly layer the colors by patting - instead of windshield wiper motion.

Colors layered

Here is the duo pan swatched and layered. Layered together it becomes a beautiful taupe, with a hint of almost lilac and pinky undertones. The pink, white and silver combined becomes a very shimmery white shade: perfect for highlighting the brow bone or the inner corner, etc.

Comparison with SUQQU pinks

Comparison with pinks: Koukiori, EX-27 Hanashion, 18 Sakuraori, 21 Yoihagi.
Koukiori's pink is closest to Yoihagi's cool light pink, Koukiori being frostier with silver glitter. Hanashion is darker medium pink, with warm peachy undertones. Sakuraori's is also darker, a medium pink with a hint of golden undertones. They all swatch beautifully and with a similar pigmentation.


Here's a little make up of the day with Koukiori. I copied the lovely @noodlesdoodleswithpretties and did a gradient eye, using the split pan near the lash line. I had the pink as a base, pinky white in inner corner and silver as a highlight. It is a gorgeous look if you have less hooded lids than I do. A gradient is often what SUQQU's make up artist seem to do in Japan. Rest of the make up: Surratt lipstique in Perfectioniste, Hourglass blush in Mood Exposure and SUQQU liquid brow pen.


I skipped SUQQU's Spring and Summer collections this year, but I'm very happy I decided to purchase this quad. It didn't turn into a Hollywood actress in an instant, but I'm getting the vibes and surprisingly a lot use out of it. If the cool and sparkly colors speak to you, I can warmly recommend it.