I am so excited to share bits of SUQQU's S/S 2017 collection. Within a year the brand has gone through such a revamp, first discontinuing their old blushes, then coming up with a new lipstick line and now eyeshadow palettes. Today I have the pleasure of showing you one of the new SUQQU Designing Color Eyes palettes in 05 Aoshizuku (蒼雫) and my initial thoughts about the new formula.
SUQQU Designing Color Eyes
Sad to see the old palettes go, for me the look of old SUQQU palettes (but not the oldest, mind you) were iconic. I would recognise the silhouette from any other high end quads. I loved sheer, nuanced colors and their endless layering ways. On the other hand, I'm happy SUQQU is evolving and revamping. The new gold lining of the packaging is very chic and I don't miss the velvet pouch one bit. And best of all - you get 5.6g of product instead of the old 4.2g for the same price. SUQQU Designing Color Eyes are available in 5 permanent shades + one limited edition (101) for S/S17. They retail for ¥7,344 or €51.00 (~$54.76). You can purchase palettes from SUQQU UK counters, Selfridges and SUQQU Japan.
Thoughts on the new formula
I've been playing with 05 Aoshizuku about one week. Normally I would prefer testing a product for a longer time, but I wanted to get my review and swatches up near the UK release. To compare the old formula I took out my most shimmery quad EX-29 Koukiori and tested both palettes in the same eye look. The differences in the actual formula of the shadows weren't as noticeable as I expected. I might change my mind about this later, but so far I'm content the formulation isn't too different from the old.
In my opinion, the biggest differences to the older Blend Color Eyeshadow palettes are the pan size and lack of matte colors. It's not the first time SUQQU releases all shimmer palettes, but this time the whole collection lacks matte shadows. Where as old SUQQU quads had very complex shimmers, 05 Aoshizuku is much simpler with one color shimmer on a base shade.
Applying 05 Aoshizuku
I think 05 Aoshizuku is a winner in its constant quality and I expect the same from the rest of the new palettes. In some older SUQQU quads there were inconsistencies with harder mattes and more 'crumbly' shimmers. 05 Aoshizuku applies smooth and beautiful with little to no fallout. No glitter fest. The eyeshadows wore about 8h on my primed but hooded lids, just like the old formula did. The pigmentation is sheer-medium where as old palettes were on the sheer side. In the swatches below I've done two finger swipes of color. As you can see, the colors still transform beautifully when layered. Not as complex as the old, but still very pretty.
- Beige + white: Gold layered with silver creates a beautiful icy gold with a champagne hue
- Glittery icy white
- Yellow ochre gold with golden glitters
- Dark chocolate with greenish undertone (on my skin) and specks of golden shimmer
- Dark navy grey/slate with fine blueish shimmer
- Brown + navy/slate: Slate grey with a chocolate undertone and specks of metallic shimmers
As my lids have matured, I'm more concerned about the eyeshadow texture. The two lighter shades have more prominent glitters, but they're not too chunky in my opinion. A bit frosty when layered, but daytime appropriate/easy to wear as they're not high-shine or metallic (like Natasha Denona). The two darker shades have micro shimmers when inspected closely, giving the shades a beautiful subtle sheen. I especially like them layered, I can see both dark slate or brown hues depending on how light hits the color.
Change in design
Now there's another interesting difference in SUQQU Blend Color Eyeshadow (old) and Designing Color Eyes (new) palette designs, which is the placement of colors. If my memory serves me right, the pictorial on SUQQU's website instructed Blend Color Eyeshadows to be used counter-clockwise from bottom right: base, middle shade, highlight shade and deep color. In the new pictogram Designing Color Eyes the deepen from the top left (highlight color), going top right (nuance color), bottom left (accent color) and bottom right (deep color). I'd be curious to hear the reasoning for this change. Palette on the right, EX-36 Fuyusumire, reviewed here.
I think the Japanese gradient eye look done with this palette is sublime, but this time I'm wearing the nude gold all over the lid, dark brown and navy layered in the outer corner, white on the centre of the lid and inner corner highlight. It looks very subtle with my eyes open (hello, hooded lids), but I like it. With 05 Aoshizuku, I don't find myself missing my usual must-have matte crease color. Make up worn:
Base: Addiction Skincare Foundation 01, Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Vanilla
Eyes: Viseart Structure brow palette, SUQQU Designing Color Eyes 05 Aoshizuku, Benefit Roller lash mascara
Cheeks: SUQQU Pure Color Blush 07 Tsuyasatsuki (review coming soon)
Lipstick: SUQQU Extra Glow Lipstick 07
The increase of pigmentation might be a good selling-point for the Western audience, but personally I think SUQQU has gone to the roots of Japanese make up. Very shimmery, easy to layer, blendable, perfect to create gradient the eyeshadow look, which is super popular in Japan. I was never drawn to Lunasol's glittery shadows, but SUQQU delivers the "adult shimmer" in a sophisticated way. I'm smitten with the new collection and I can't wait to get my hands on the other palettes. In the future I'd like to see more complex glitters and maybe a matte or two to make the collection more diverse.
Are you eyeing Aoshizuku or any other items from SUQQU S/S17 collection?
The SUQQU products in this post were generously provided for consideration. Regardless, my opinions are my own honest and unbiased views. The links are for your convenience and do not contain ads.